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G1 with arctic cat 530 liquid cooled sled motor

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G1 with arctic cat 530 liquid cooled sled motor

Postby bryguy39 » Mon Jul 07, 2008 11:03 pm

I need to see how some guys did there exhaust! Also what belt are you guys using the cart belt of snowmobile belt? Would like to see under the hood of G1's with seld motors.

Will post pics of cart 2marrow.

thanks bryan
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Postby 91marathon » Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:18 pm

I'm not building a G1 but I am building an EZ-Go which is similar. I'm using the stock EZ-GO belt which is 1-3/16" wide which just happens to the same belt width as the belt for the sled my motor is from (74-77 Skidoo TNT 440) as far as I can tell. For exhaust I see most people don't use the tuned exhaust and just run a silencer can. I plan to use stock exhaust off an old Skidoo that was just a compact can that is not tuned at all. You may find yourself running into problems not running the tuned exhaust on a liquid motor. Some newer sled motor will barely run without the tuned exhaust. That's my 2 cents.
1990 Marathon
22" front leafs cut to 19"
75lb/inch front coil-over shocks
14" 200lb rear springs, AC Delco shocks
2" rear coil spring spacer
Rotax 440
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Postby bryguy39 » Tue Jul 08, 2008 7:33 pm

ok so by just using a silencer can(square box lol) wont that ruin the motor? also my belt is much wider on the sled motor then the cart belt what do i use?thanks bryan
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Postby 91marathon » Thu Jul 10, 2008 1:30 pm

Some snowmobile motors will die a sad death if you don't use the stock exhaust on it or some might not even run at all or some might just make less HP and live a longer life. I purposely chose an older design engine for my cart to avoid this problem ( Most single carb Fan cooled motors are pretty tame compared to a dual carb liquid motor and anymore then 30HP and 9000RPM is wayyyy too much in my opinion)
Best bet is to find a way to cram the stock snowmobile exhaust on your cart or an after market version for the snowmobile the engine comes from - I have no idea how to do it.

As for the belt I'm not sure if the sled clutch will work correctly with a belt that is too narrow - I would image the belt will ride too low on the primary clutch and you wont get top speed or proper gear ratio spread. If you can modify the sled secondary to fit the cart you would be golden - I've never tried so it's all theory

Good luck
1990 Marathon
22" front leafs cut to 19"
75lb/inch front coil-over shocks
14" 200lb rear springs, AC Delco shocks
2" rear coil spring spacer
Rotax 440
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Postby clayridgecarts » Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:11 pm

I have a 440 Rotax in my G2, the exhaust was the hardest part, very little room to work !! But if i remeber a G1 has more area to build in. I welded right onto the stock sled manifold and just brought it up and over to the side of tha cart and then strait down. I left out the expansion chamber and the quiter box. The motor runs fine with out them, just really loud. I was told that the expansion chamber is only there to give back pressure at low end excelleration. A sled motor is used to powering up a long track in deep snow, not a light golf cart with a free rolling suspention. Less effort at start up. Im new to this fourm, i will try to post some pics of the cart if you intrested.
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Postby bryguy39 » Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:03 pm

yes id be interested in seeing how you did ur exhaust. thanks, Bryan
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Picture update

Postby bryguy39 » Fri Jul 25, 2008 4:33 pm

here is what i got for 300.00+ a mint set of bucket seats(hard to come by)


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Postby 91marathon » Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:37 pm

clayridgecarts wrote:I have a 440 Rotax in my G2, the exhaust was the hardest part, very little room to work !! But if i remeber a G1 has more area to build in. I welded right onto the stock sled manifold and just brought it up and over to the side of tha cart and then strait down. I left out the expansion chamber and the quiter box. The motor runs fine with out them, just really loud. I was told that the expansion chamber is only there to give back pressure at low end excelleration. A sled motor is used to powering up a long track in deep snow, not a light golf cart with a free rolling suspention. Less effort at start up. Im new to this fourm, i will try to post some pics of the cart if you intrested.


The expansion chamber is actually tuned to the engine and will create a supercharging effect at the rpm that the pipe is tuned for. This why 2 stroke motors often have very narrow peaky power bands. This peaky behavior can make a golf cart with the sled motor almost feel like an like you either go like hell or go real slow with nothing i between. An older (80's) fan cooled motor with CDI like a Rotax 377 or something will make lots of power and have a nice linear powerband when not using the pipe. Bottom line - a newer liquid motor with the factory pipe would make a golf cart go like a raped ape but be very hard to control at low speeds whereas a older fan motor with just a car muffler or something would feel more like a stock golf car motor - just more powerful. You could even use the factory golf cart exhaust to make it really quiet but you might cause the motor to lose a lot of power
1990 Marathon
22" front leafs cut to 19"
75lb/inch front coil-over shocks
14" 200lb rear springs, AC Delco shocks
2" rear coil spring spacer
Rotax 440
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Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 8:24 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Postby bryguy39 » Thu Oct 30, 2008 9:54 pm

The project is done minus paint and body work, i will post pictures this weekend after we make the rear end posi.

Bryan
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Postby 56servi » Sun Nov 02, 2008 7:04 pm

I put a 377 Ski Doo in my Marathon. I made up an exhaust using 1 3/4 old car headers into a Honda motorcycle muffler.

I have NO power right now. The engine won't even get the clutch to engage all the way. If I put it in neutral or jack up the rear end the clutches will engage all the way.

I am going to try and connect the stock muffler (2 1/4") to see if it makes more power.
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Postby Sho305 » Mon Nov 10, 2008 11:44 pm

Yes the chamber serves to reflect the exhaust wave back into the engine at the rpm it is tuned at. A typical sled might work like this: clutch engages at 3800rpm. Pipe tuned for 4400 to 7000 peak HP. This way there is limited power at 3800 but enough to take off. Too much power and you just dig a hole and get stuck, or spin like crazy. Once you get going the clutch shifts up to 7K if WOT, and you have max power to however fast it goes. Now you put 300 picks in the track, then you up the clutch to 4500 engagement. Now it really takes off hard and pulls the front. Old HI-PO engines can be kind of all or nothing, but depends on how you do the clutch. I rode a friends 900 cat with 150 stock HP, a 7 year old could ride it all day if they didn't peg the gas. It was as docile as could be if you wanted, but did 0-60 in 3 seconds or so...it was hard to see. If you want the power you need the pipe. I would recommend you find a single pipe engine, and one from a trail sled not a race or high performance model....unless you want something special. Those 'normal' sleds will not have a peaky powerband, many twin pipe performance sleds do. Another issue is the pipe length is very important. You can turn the pipe, cut and weld it, but don't change the length in any section of it or it will change how it works. Most cut at an angle, then turn the pipe and weld back together, maybe multiple times but that way you can turn the pipe and keep it stock length and diameter. A pipe for low rpm will be longer, so if you shorten the pipe you tune it for higher rpm...it takes less time for the reflection to get back to engine, so it will work at higher rpm than before.
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