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Fuel sending unit installation

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Fuel sending unit installation

Postby Allyan » Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:00 pm

Be sure to read my post about SAFETY first before you being tackeling installation of the tank fuel sending unit. Also, I found it much easier to remove the tank from the cart and perform the installation. You'll understand when and if you begin this project.

Tools needed:
-Safety goggles
-Portable or electrical Dremel tool (or equivalent)
-Abrasive cutting disk and mandrel
-Drum sanding bit and medium sanding collar
-Portable drill and 3/16" drill bit
-Sharpee black fine tip marker
-3 in 1 oil
-5/16 inch diameter, 1/4 inch drive socket and socket handle or 1/4 inch rachet will suffice.
- Two 1/2 inch wrenches (1- boxed end wrench, & 1 - open end)
- Hose clamp pliars or small pair of Vice Grip pliars
- a good shop light (portable high power light works great)
- Well ventilated area to work in, (preferably outside)
- A small diameter wire, stiff enough to hold its shape but bendible.

1. Using the hose clamp pliars (or Vice Grip pliars) , disconnect fuel line and cap off or tape the fuel line to prevent debris (dirt, or other foreign object) from entering the fuel system
2. Siphon ALL of the fuel from the tank in an approved gasoline container.
3. Using the two 1/2 inch wrenches, remove the forward and rear fuel tank holding bolts.
4. Remove the tank.
5. Open fuel tank cap, fill tank with water and rinse out tank and fill again..
6. Place tank on a work bench (or table) outside and fill with water.
7. Unpackage the new tank sending unit, bolts, grey washer, and "c" shaped adapter.
8. When looking at your tank, you will notice the rear of the tank has a circular raised area within a raised area. It is the smaller raised area that you will be trimming out.
9. Using goggles, and the Dremel tool with an abrasive cutting disk mounted on a straight mandrel, cut out the inner raised area as close to flush as you can. Remove the cut out area (about the size of a fifty cent piece in diameter).
10. Replace the abrasive cutting disk with a small drum sander attachment and carefully sand down any edges of the fuel tank that might be pertruding. It is important to make sure the tank surface is very smooth to ensure a tight seal when installing the fuel sending unit.
11. Test fit the gasket and sending unit with the fuel tank. The fuel float arm must just be able to fit in the hole you trimmed out in the tank. The float arm will be positioned toward the center of the tank for free movement.
12. Take note of two things. FIRST use the sharpee pencil tip marker to mark the sending unit flange where the ground tab is located. SECOND line up ALL OF THE HOLES IN THE FLANGE WITH THE HOLES IN THE GASKET. Mark the gasket with the sharpee to easily identify the alignment. THIRD, mark the holes with the pencil tip marker EXACTLY where the mounting screws will be installed.
13. Remove the sending unit and gasket. Now, locate the "C" ring adapter. Place the adapter on top of the tank and align the markings for the holes with the threaded holes in the ring. You should be able to look down the adapter ring holes and see the black mark centered in each threaded hole. VERY IMPORTANT STEP HERE!!! note the position of the open end of the "C". Put a tick mark with the sharpee noting the direction of the open "C" on the tank.
14. Set the "c" adapter ring off to the side. Take your portable drill, and 3/16" drill bit and CAREFULLY drill out the black dot you marked on the fuel tank for each bolt. Remove any debris from the hole area (inside the tank too)!
15. Once you have drilled all of the holes, fit the fuel sending unit and ensure all of the holes line up with sending unit.
16. Drain all of the water and any drilling debris out of the tank. Set the tank aside for a moment.
17. Take the sending unit mounting bolts, place a drop of 3 in 1 oil on the threads and hand thread in the adapter "C". Each and every bolt should easily hand tighten and thread in. Remove the bolts.
18. You are now going to install the adapter "c" ring in the tank. FIRST, turn the tank upside down. Carefully insert the "C" ring in the tank and put the gasket on the sending unit. Align the sharpee marks to ensure all the holes line up. SECOND, carefully insert the float and swing arm of the fuel sending unit in the upside down tank. Using a small piece of wire (to help guide the open end of the "C" adapter) around the fuel sending unit you inserted in the tank. NOW, take the high beam flashlight and flash up one of the holes in the fuel sending unit. Align the "C" ring with the sending unit (by using the small flexible wire) and insert one bolt with a seal on it and hand tighten.
19. Carefully turn the fuel tank upright. The swing arm should fall in place in the center of the tank. (look down the filler hole in the tank).
20. Carefully lift the tank and place on the work bench. Place the high beam light direcly up-to and facing the fuel tank. The light will illuminate the fuel tank and aid in final installtion of mounting bolts.
21. Using the small wire, ensure each hole is aligned to receive a mounting bolt. If not, carefully loosen the bolt you installed when the tank was upside down and adjust the adapter ring alignment. DO NOT REMOVE THE MOUNTING BOLT OR THE ADAPTER RING WILL FALL TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK AND YOU WILL BE REPEATING STEPS 18 - 21 ALL OVER.
22. Carefully place a seal on each bolt and insert each bolt and hand tighten. If the bolt will not "catch" and thread in the "C" adapter, then you will have to devise an improvised holding tool made out of thick bendible wire and insert in the fuel tank filler hole to assist in holding the "C" adapter in place. THIS CAN BE A TEDIOUS PROCESS AND WILL TEST YOUR PATIENCE.
23. Install each mounting bolt and ensure each bolt has a seal on it before installing. Hand tighten all bolts.
24. Using a 5/16 inch 1/4 inch drive socket and ratchet, carefully tighten each bolt a-little at a time untill all bolts are snug and securely fastened. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS!!!!
25. You can hold your finger over the fuel tank line and carefully blow in the tank to check for "air leaks". If the tank has no sounds of air escaping around the newly installed sending unit gasket, then you have successfully installed the unitl
26. Check for debris in the tank, reinstall in the cart, tighten the bolts and attach wires.
27. Ensure all wires are connected, grounded, and installed CORRECTLY.
28 Put some fuel in the tank and see if the guage measures the content. If so, you have success! If not, check your connections and compare with the wiring schematics of your cart.

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Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 9:36 pm
Location: North Carolina

Postby Rocket » Sat Oct 07, 2006 5:26 pm

Great Explanation!!! Great Detail!!!
"COTM WINNER" October 2005!
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Postby Allyan » Sat Oct 07, 2006 10:10 pm

Just try'n to help out. Been there, done that with no help and not much more than a wing and a prayer.

Posts: 34
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 9:36 pm
Location: North Carolina

Postby Chris95 » Sat Oct 07, 2006 11:18 pm

Awesome!! :lol: :lol: I will call my EZGO dealer in Waycross, GA and see if he has the parts in stock. Those are great directions. How long did it take you to complete this? :?:
Thanks again
Chris95 8)
Posts: 106
Joined: Mon May 22, 2006 10:51 am

Fuel sending unit installation

Postby Allyan » Sun Oct 08, 2006 11:06 am

Installation of the sending unit in the fuel tank took about one hour. Most of this was in prep work, getting all my tools together (to include the make-shift tool to hold the "c" shaped adapter in the tank. Knowing what I do now, I can comfortably do an install in about 30 minutes. Keep in mind, I had my fuel tank out of the cart at this time.

Patience is the key. If you find yourself getting frustrated walk away and take a break. One more thing, thread the mounting bolts in the "C" shaped adapter by hand with a couple of drops of 3 in 1 oil on the bolt threads before you even get started. I learned this first hand. It will pay off in the completion of your install.

Safety first, and patience. Think about what you're doing, carefully measure and check your marking, and don't worry about beating the clock. Nothing done right is ever done in a hurry!!!!

Posts: 34
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 9:36 pm
Location: North Carolina

Postby Chris95 » Sun Oct 08, 2006 11:15 am

Great!! Yeah, not to get in ahurry is the key. I'll let you know when I get my items and get them installed. My cart is currently listed under Diamond plate sound system. It took about three months to get it looking that way with the paint job (to match my truck), lift kit, tires, radio, diamond plate,etc. Like you say patience is everything!
Thanks again for ALL your help
Chris95 8)
Posts: 106
Joined: Mon May 22, 2006 10:51 am

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